The Memory of Eating Noodles
Design Director|Lee Hsuheng
"Military Village Beef Noodles"—a dish that was once an innovation—was placed within an old framework and regarded as a traditional staple. For those who grew up in Taiwan, it became a collective memory: under dim lighting, the thick provincial accent of the owner, the heavy aromas of Sichuan peppercorns, star anise, and Chinese herbs filling the air. Large blue-and-white porcelain bowls, chopstick buckets on every table, scalding broth glistening with golden beef fat, giant chunks of beef filling your mouth, and springy noodles—impossible to stop eating. These are memories from over twenty years ago.
Back then, Old Zhang was already seventy. A native of Mianyang, Sichuan, he followed the Nationalist army to Taiwan in 1949. After forty years of being away from home, he pieced together the flavors of his homeland from memory, giving birth to what is now known as Taiwan’s Sichuan-style beef noodles.
As a young man, Lee Hsuheng could not yet comprehend what such a long-separated veteran might have felt. But he vividly remembered the satisfaction those bowls of noodles brought. In 2011, in Beijing, when a client commissioned him to design a Taiwanese beef noodle restaurant, those old memories came flooding back. Thus began the project—a noodle shop built on memories.
There are no lofty design philosophies in this project—only memory. Blue-and-white porcelain bowls, chopstick buckets, steaming clouds of vapor: these became the restaurant’s themes. As Old Zhang once crossed the sea to Taiwan, two decades later, Lee Hsuheng returned from Taiwan to the mainland. Using Old Zhang’s humble approach, the designer sought to recreate the memory of eating noodles from home, right in the heart of Beijing.
This project marks Lee Hsuheng’s first publicly presented beef noodle shop design infused with cross-strait historical memories. It intertwines Taiwan’s unique Sichuan-style noodles, Beijing’s cultural atmosphere, and the bittersweet stories of veterans, creating a deliberate emotional connection between two sides of history.