Basalt Wine - Laposa Cellar, Processing building
Introduction
The
Witness Hills
The Witness Hills
illustrate the original height of the previously eroded and weathered area.
These hills do not form a chain, but are solitary islands that stand alone
preserving a specific stratification that arose from the former Pannon sea.
Millions of years ago at the deepest part of the Pannon Sea that covered the
Balaton Highland and the entire territory of the country, violent volcanic
activity took place. The famous hills of the Balaton Highland: Badacsony, Szent
György-Hill, Csobánc, Gulács, the Tóti Hill, Haláp, as well as a little further
north from these, arising from the plain, the Somló-Hill, the Kis-Somló and the
Ság-Hill were all the result of these volcanic activities that interrupted the
limestone sediments As the burning lava erupted to the surface through the
cracks resulting from crustal movements, it soon solidified, covering and
protecting like an armour the sandy-clay island hills hiding beneath. These
heights have resisted both wind and ice due to this basaltic armour, and stand
witness even today to the height of the “original” land surface.
The
Badacsony Basalt
Badacsony is the highest
southern Witness Hill in the Tapolca-basin, rising between two bays of Lake
Balaton. The circumference of the nearly round hill is 11 km and the diameter
of its plateau region that is slightly elongated in a north-south direction is
1-1.5 km. The highest peak stands at 437.4 m above sea level.
Up to a height of 280
meters the side is covered by varying loose sediments, mainly the remaining
layers of volcanic debris, eroded from the slopes of the foothills. Above this
grey basalt, cliffs and stone screes emerge from the thick covering of the
forest.
The steep regions between
the base of the hills and upper regions have often been transformed into
terraces, as the loamy basalt debris is not only excellent for growing vines
but also provides the body and rich mineral aromas of the wines with their
beautiful acid background characteristic of this landscape.
Lake Balaton
The other important natural characteristic of the area
is the sub-Mediterranean micro climate. On the southern, south-western sunny
slopes that are topographically protected from the north, the favourable effect
of Lake Balaton can also be felt: the large water surface of the lake prevents
the development of extreme temperatures, as well as ensuring higher humidity
content in the air. Thus as a result of
the even temperature free of extremes the summers are not too hot and the
winters lack harshness: as a result, the vineyards do not suffer from frost
damage and due to the plentiful and partially reflected sunshine, the high acid
content of the wines is accompanied by high sugar and/or alcohol content.
The
grape and the wine
White grapes are mainly being
grown in the Badacsony wine growing region, mostly the Olaszrizling, Szürkebarát and Kéknyelű
grapes– with these varieties producing the most beautiful of wines.
The wine of the grey monks
from a grape variety of French origin, the Pinot Gris, has been raised to a
local speciality for over 600 years. The
berries of the Szürkebarát are purple when ripe with the wine being light
golden in colour. Its taste, if made dry, is spicy and medicinally herby. In
special years the berries shrivel and can become virtually raisins on the vine,
resulting in a deep and complex almost sherry type wine.
The Kéknyelű variety is virtually exclusive to this
wine growing region in Hungary. It is rarely planted on its own as it carries
female flowers and is a poor pollinator, thus vines are mixed with the Budai
zöld variety. At harvest it is not picked separately and is processed together
being sold under the Kéknyelű name. The wine has a light green colour and a restrained
but characteristic aroma; its acid balance is best enjoyedfollowing a long maturation.
The
Press Houses
Between
the vineyards and the retaining walls built from basalt rocks cellars and press
houses have been built for centuries providing a home for both wine making and
relaxation. Enclosed rooms were built in front of and also above these small
subterranean maturation spaces, operating on the one hand as an entrance for
the cellars with their unchanging temperature, and on the other the processing
of the grapes took place here. The small scale, simple shaped and structured
(press) house archetypes provided a specific character to the vine covered
hills with their “illuminated” facades.
The descriptions in the Introduction were prepared by
using materials from the following institutes: Balaton Highland National Park,
Independent Ecological Centre, Hévíz-Info, Zrinyi Miklós Secondary School –
Zalaegerszeg, Hungarian Wine Guide.
Architecture
The wines of the
Laposa-Cellar following the millennium became well known amongst Hungarian wine
drinkers under the brand name “Bazaltbor” or Basalt wine. Their growing regions
are only on the basalt hills – in Badacsony, Somló, on Szentgyörgy-hill and
Csobánc – which is the reason for the characteristic mineral aromas of the
wines that mirror their terroir. The cellar today harvest from over 20 hectares
local and international varieties, amongst others Szürkebarát, Juhfark, Olasz-
and Rajnai Riesling or Kéknyelű. The market entry and dynamic growth of the
cellar has also resulted in the expansion of the technological and tourism
areas. During the development, besides increasing the scale, the aim on both an
architectural and viticultural level was to modernise and maintain the making
and presentation of the basalt wine.
The wine making activity
moved down to the foot of the hill, to Badacsonytomaj, from the previous family
cellar that operated in the southern side of Badacsony. With the freeing up of
the old winery, a catering / tasting section and in connection with this also a
small hotel will be built on the site emphasising the extraordinary panorama of
Lake Balaton that opens up from there. The upper regions, which serve vine
growing as well as relaxation, and the lower viticultural processing plant
become connected by the revitalisation and recultivation of the vine regions of
the hillside. In addition, the wine route or educational path to be built will
also present this organic relationship.
The entire region is part
of the Balaton Highland National Park, whilst however the upper section of the
wine route belongs more to the natural landscape (as well as to the cultivated
and terraced vineyard hillsides), the processing building on the lower site
form part of the single level free standing style of the town. Whereas the
urbanising process is only characteristic of recent decades, in general the
viticulture of the Balaton Highland, (fundamentally rooted in its character, by
its nature,”) has to connect more with nature.
An important question then
is with what formal method can the building which is of a relatively
large-scale compared with its environment be managed. The single reference
point can only be the earthbound architecture of the vine (the press house and
the retaining wall) as well as nature itself.
Being bound to the earth as
a result of the programme should be taken literally: building shall take place
downwards along the gravitational principle, so that the grapes are exposed
only to the most necessary procedures. This way only a quarter of the total
area of the vinery is above ground, the rest is contained in the belly of the
hill.
On this basis we cannot
work with architectural tools, forms, structures and clear archi(tectonic)
matches in a traditional sense, but at the same time we cannot reject them
entirely either. The viticultural building has to be like a model, but the
hierarchic organisational structure is not an exclusive factor for this.
In the geometric model two
basic elements – the symmetric gable, closed roof abstraction of the press
house and the hexagonal shaped idealised cross section of the basalt
pillars-layers – connect together into a new system, which at the same time is
also a reminder of both references. The basic elements – as the basalt bands
that erupted to the surface – run freely, in any direction where there are no
obstacles; sometimes separating, sometimes joining. The dimensions of the
geometrical basic elements (cross sections) are variable, thus flowing into each
other, in places rising from the soil and providing a distorted surface on the
roof.
The building is composed of
connected panel elements, which were cast as monolithic visible concrete. The
neutrality and rigidity of this is primarily detectable in the internal spaces
and their relationship. There were two places where the dressing of the model,
thus the addition of secondary ornamentation was necessary: when meeting the
outside and at the cellar section for barrel maturation. For the former,
following the principle of being like a model, the differentiation of the
facades and the roof is missing; their homogenous covering is made up of
prefabricated fine concrete facing panels, with a slightly transformed pattern
of grapevines climbing and twining around them. If natural lighting needs to be
provided in the inside spaces, the bands in the reinforced concrete model,
following its geometry, were replaced by a light structure and glass cladding
and the facing panel by a perforated metal sheet. Naturally the same grapevine
pattern continues on this latter one, pulling it together into a unified
surface.
The other ornament is to be
found in the inside, in the deepest branch of the cellar. Although this space
is of a longitudinal nature with a barrel shape, like a traditional cellar, its
axis is broken several times and its structure is from reinforced concrete as
part of the model. This bent-broken surface is covered by a brick layer
characteristic of traditional cellars, but not according to the principles of
tectonic order and brick binding, but diagonally, appearing as a woven fabric.
Operation
Inside
of the model, the structural order and the sequence of the spaces follow the
wine making process in both a vertical and horizontal sense. The processing
building consists of a technological wing of more industrial nature and an
integrally linked brick covered cellar wing with ripening / storage functions.
The two parts at the same time are separated by the floor plan and really form
the two wings of a building. The line of cellars is covered by a layer of soil
which is over five metres thick, with only the entrance rising above ground
level. Only one of the three levels of the technological wing is above ground,
the remaining two are underground with access being provided to the cellar wing
at the lowest level.
According
to the gravitational system, grape processing takes place at zero level, in the
middle of the building, with connections at soil level: following selection and
separation of the berries the grape is placed into the receiving containers or
tanks that are sunk into the floor. From here it passes on to the mobile press
which is usually a level beneath, then to one more level deeper, now in the
form of must, into the fermentation steel containers or the fermentation and
ripening barrels. This central section is two storeys high and also has a
direct connection to the processing space above through a floor opening. The
press moves on a gantry that is suspended in the airspace. The vertical
transport core is also located in this large space with stairs and a freight
elevator. In line with gravitation the red wine barrel maturation can be found
on the lower level and the maturation barrels for white wines in the cellar
wing. The wine exiting the barrels reaches the bottling room on the zero level
through the developed pump system, where the wine returns to the deeper levels
with the help of the freight elevator. There are four bottle maturation rooms
available, differing in size and climate.
At ground level there are
two separate entrances in the technological wing for receiving the grape and
for delivering bottles. The processing and labelling-storing space is
accordingly behind them. The two-story reception area, which also houses bottle
maturation in the southern direction and is linked to the cellar wing, also has
entrances from the road and from Lake Balaton: guests who are also interested in the wine making itself are welcomed
here.
The unified consideration
of the internal spaces is supported by the visible concrete cover, which in
reality is independent of the functions taking place within it. The displayed
furnishing is characteristically technological, thus objects (tanks) or lateral
pipe fittings and matching lighting fixtures of an “industrial appearance” are
uniformly made of stainless steel. All installations are made separately from
the structure and assembled, with an alignment following the directions of the
model geometry and the roof ridge. The slotted soak-away that runs along the
building is also in line with this concept, it removes liquids from the solid,
non-slip epoxy floor covering, which is easily cleaned but at the same time
resistant to industrial and cleaning water as well as chemicals. Such secondary
units, as the social block, the laboratory and the mechanical spaces are
located on the top floor. The external air technology unit and the aggregated
technological cooling system have been located close to the central core,
although still outside and along the western wall, being at the same height as
the internal level, but at the same time sunken compared to the ground.
Péter Kis, Bea Molnár all photographs by Zsolt Batar