A Passion for Preservation at 10th Annual Modernism Week in Palm Springs

For many vacationers, the resort town of Palm Springs is just that: a place to lie by the pool, view the mountains, and enjoy the sun. Every February, however, this small desert city about 100 miles from Los Angeles sees a massive influx of designers, collectors, architects, and anyone else who loves its influential buildings. The “Modernists,” as the signs in front of hotels and event venues say.

The 2015 Modernism Week tour bus. Photo by David A. Lee

Now in its 10th year, Modernism Week has grown to be part academic conference, part architectural tourism, complete with a series of stylish evening parties where people show off their best vintage looks. Crowds suddenly flood the small downtown area, piling into double-decker sightseeing buses normally seen in New York or Hollywood to get glimpses of the desert’s Mid-Century neighborhoods.

Palm Springs remains particularly significant because architects in the desert were so effective at bringing modernism to public spaces.

The events don’t just cover local history though. They celebrate all aspects of the modernist aesthetic. Lectures focus on everything from in-depth theoretical looks at masterpieces like Richard Neutra’s Kaufman House to Todd Oldham’s keynote address, “Todd Oldham <3’s Alexander Girard,” a fun and whimsical overview of the influential Herman Miller designer’s long career. There was also a day dedicated to Modernism in Michigan and many other place-specific presentations.

In his lecture on the Palm Springs School, author and architect Alan Hess asserted that Palm Springs remains particularly significant because architects in the desert were so effective at bringing modernism to public spaces. The airport, the school district’s headquarters, gas stations, restaurants, and hotels built from the 1930s through the ’60s filled the city with cutting edge design and buildings intelligently integrated with their surroundings.

Kaufmann House by Richard Neutra. Photo by David A. Lee

Edris House. Photo by Stewart Williams

In addition to the fabulous weekend homes built for Hollywood elite of the ‘40s and ‘50s, the Alexander Company enhanced Mid-Century aesthetics by forging 11 neighborhoods of A-Frame tract homes. Exteriors riff on some of the better-known masterpieces, using alternating roofs on the same floor plan to create entirely modernist, unique subdivisions — a refreshing sight for anyone accustomed to the cookie-cutter streets of so many Southern California communities.

Waning interest in Palm Springs and modernism throughout the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s led to the destruction of many notable buildings and some Alexander neighborhoods fell into disrepair and neglect. Rosemary Kreiger, the producer of the Modernism Show, says that back in 1999, “The real estate market was dramatically undervalued and young buyers from LA and San Francisco could buy great, unrestored vintage ’50s and ’60s houses… it created a retail market for vintage and mid-century furniture. That made the timing right for us to introduce a modernism show in Palm Springs.”

Pool view at the Frey House.

Rugged exterior view of the Frey House.

This current February schedule, jam-packed with events over the course of ten days ending last Sunday, grew out of that original Modernism Show, which remains the week’s centerpiece. Jacques Caussin, a Palm Springs Resident now for 12 years, originally came here after directing the Miami Modernism Show. He saw the opportunity to create something in conjunction with the renewed interest and budding preservation efforts by locals.

“One of the reasons we started Modernism week as preservation was thinking that if we can create events during that week, people will come for longer, which obviously has an impact on a place based on tourism. I thought, maybe when some people start hearing the cash register, they will say, ‘Well hmm, they all came to look at these old buildings, maybe these old buildings aren’t so bad after all!’”

True to this theory, the Modernism Show has grown to boast 85 national and international exhibitors and a second weekend of “previews” in October, expected to draw more than 45,000 visitors and $17 million brought to the region. Along with the growing — and lucrative — appreciation of Mid Century aesthetics, Palm Springs saw a shift of attitudes, and the renewed interest has inevitably turned to bona fide preservation.

Horizontal view of Tramway Gas Station. Photo by Daniel Chavkin

Tramway Gas Station. Photo by Daniel Chavkin

Over the last ten years, Modcom, the local Modernism Committee, along with the Palm Springs Preservation Foundation, have successfully saved many Alexander homes, the Albert Frey Tramway Gas Station, and Downtown Fire Station #1, as well as Donald Wexler’s open air Palm Springs Airport façade. “It would not be far-fetched to say that there hasn’t been an insensitive restoration since we started Modernism Week,” adds Caussin.

The effects also appear in newer developments — angular condominiums with floor-to-ceiling windows are springing up around the area, paying homage to Wexler, Frey, and Neutra’s iconic residences. Other cities are capitalizing on the successful approach as well, with Phoenix, Ariz., and Lansing, Mich., launching similar events to foster appreciation and preservation of their modern works.

Modern Garden Tour. Photo by David A. Lee

Wexler Steel House. Photo By Jim Riche

Party at Sinatra House. Photo by David A. Lee

Even as massive an event it is now, Modernism Week remains a place to investigate and find inspiration from these historic designs. “The people who come to Modernism Week,” Caussin says, “are intellectually curious, more than curious, rabid about learning.” He and his fellow modernists are happy to oblige by ensuring that future generations will have the chance to appreciate the historic architecture of Palm Springs.

Dusk view of Frey House.